Burgers Sizzling in Wayne!

Even if you’ve only paid the slightest bit of attention to the food scene in and around north Jersey, you couldn’t help but notice the many burger outposts that have popped up in the last couple of years. You’ve got everything from fast food establishments and upscale wine bars, to more family friendly venues vying for your burger business. And that last type brings us today to Burger Deluxe.

Set back on Rt 23 North in Wayne, Burger Deluxe has a “retro 60s meets New Jersey Greek diner” vibe (and I mean that in only the best way!). Owned by the Livanos Restaurant Group of New York, this is their first foray into New Jersey. Managed by longtime Livanos Group employee, Zeki Yesilyurt, he provides not only a warm welcome to guests, but also the homemade baklava (which is not to be missed!).

During a recent media event to kick off National Burger Month (May), Zeki and his friendly staff enticed us with quite a procession of delicious burgers. But Burger Deluxe is much more than burgers, as we quickly found out - beginning with their Beef Chili Nachos.  Arriving in a skillet piled high with really good guacamole, these are not your average soggy nachos. Corn tortilla chips crisp enough to hold the beef chili with red kidney beans, pico de gallo, and Jack and cheddar cheeses – quite satisfying.

We were also treated to a delicious Hummus Platter, served with grilled regular and whole-wheat pita, and crisp vegetables for dipping. This platter plus the wonderful Vegetable Burger would be a great combo for any vegetarians in your circle. The Veggie Burger is full of great stuff – onions, celery, lentils, whole-wheat breadcrumbs, mushrooms, barley, and oatmeal. I am a card carrying carnivore and I loved this burger. Vegetarians will also love it and it’s a nice alternative once in awhile for non-vegans.

Next on the burger hit parade, the French Onion Burger – the best way to describe this is a bowl of French onion soup on a bun (that's it at the top of the post in all it's onion-y glory). And the chefs at Burger Deluxe just don’t take some onions and pile them on top of a burger. The onions are first sautéed in a beef base with white wine, which gives them a rich, beefy texture. Then the burger and onions are topped with Swiss cheese and Parmesan “crunch flakes.”  Oui!

Two more burgers were on their way, but let’s focus for a minute on the classic sides that any respectable burger joint must offer. I’m talking fries and onion rings, of course. I sampled the Classic Fries, served simply with sea salt and other seasonings – very good. Burger Deluxe also offers Sweet Potato Fries, which I didn’t get to try (I had to pace myself somewhat). The Onion Rings really blew me away – house made, not at all greasy, with just the right ratio of onion to breading – outstanding!  There are far too many plebian onion rings floating around the world, so when one comes along that is noteworthy, you’ve got to embrace it.

OK, back to burgers. Zeki sent out the Turkish Lamb Kofte Burger and the En Fuego Burger. The lamb burger is served with sumac-spiced red onions and a classic tzatziki sauce on the side. If you like lamb, this is for you.

And if you think you’re “hot stuff,” the En Fuego has your name on it. My lips are still tingling from it! In all fairness, the menu states up front that this is one spicy burger, but on a scale from 1-10, I would classify it at a 20! I would love to see where this falls on the Scoville scale. If you’re a heat seeker, go for it. Made with chipotle sauce, and topped with smoked bacon, pickled jalapenos, pepper Jack cheese, and habanera peppers, this is not for lightweights. Consider yourself warned!

And any burger emporium menu worth its salt must include shakes and floats and Burger Deluxe indeed does. On the line up, four absolutely luscious shakes that would make any soda jerk proud.  We started with the Chocolate Dipped Strawberry Shake (fresh strawberries with a rich, dark chocolate sauce swirling at the bottom of the glass); following closely behind was the Caramel Shake (house made caramel with coffee ice cream); next, the Brownie Milkshake (double fudge brownie blended with vanilla ice cream – oh yeah!); and saving the best for last (IMHO), the Espresso Shake (coffee ice cream with a shot of espresso) – simply “deluxe!”

May I suggest the perfect dessert to end your Burger Deluxe meal? Zeki’s authentic baklava washed down with an Espresso Shake. He makes the baklava according to his mother’s recipe and it differs slightly from traditional Greek baklava as this version is loaded with walnuts rather than pistachios. The tender layers of phyllo are moistened with simple syrup instead of honey which eliminates that cloying sweetness that some baklava recipes fall prey to. Of course, that just means that you can eat more of these lovely little squares!

Pat LaFrieda Meats (purveyor of choice to star chefs) supplies the Angus chuck, sirloin, and brisket cuts to the restaurant so you know its top notch. With over 15 burgers to choose from, along with sandwiches, wraps, salads, and a menu that changes seasonally, Burger Deluxe is certainly a welcome addition to the Wayne area. But above all that, the Livanos’ long tradition of excellent service, good value, and commitment to high quality food, should make Burger Deluxe a tough contender to beat in the burgeoning burger wars.

Burger Deluxe

Rt 23 North

Wayne, NJ

973-305-0033

www.theburgerdeluxe.com

Sunday-Thursday: 11am – 10pm

Friday-Saturday: 11am – 11pm

Curtain Up in Newark!

A world class performing arts center needs a restaurant of the same caliber, and NJPAC in Newark is no exception.  So without further adieu, please welcome Nico to the stage.

Brought to life by the capable hands of Ryan DePersio, Nico recently opened in the space previously owned by the Theatre Square Grill. And while Theatre Square made for a decent place for a quick bite or a drink before or after a show, it was never a destination restaurant. That’s all about to change.

Between the soaring ceilings, dramatic drapes, gorgeous bar, and seductive lighting, Nico invites you to spend some time here. Order a perfectly made martini or a luscious Pinot Noir and peruse the “Italian Without Borders” menu.

Mr DePersio, along with his family, is the force behind a growing mini restaurant empire in Essex County. You may know them from Fascino in Montclair, or Bar Cara in Bloomfield. Nico is the latest entry in this culinary kingdom. All of the restaurants are grounded in their Italian heritage, but Nico pushes the envelope just a little.  At a recent press dinner, Mr DePersio showed us how far his culinary creativity reaches.

Chef DePersio is ably assisted by a wonderful team at Nico, both in the front of the house and in the kitchen. The Chef de Cuisine duties are handled by Adam Rose, and desserts are headed up by Binicio Salas, Pastry Chef.

The evening began with a Trio of Tartares consisting of Scottish Salmon, Truffled Beef, and Yellowfin Tuna, served with small slices of toasted Italian bread. I loved the mix of flavors as the seafood played off the beef.  But the Beet Pinwheel was the star of the first course. Paper-thin slices of beets dusted with goat cheese “snow” and topped with a red wine syrup and mache salad were incredible. If beets were cooked like this more often, they wouldn’t be such a maligned vegetable!

The second course brought us some of the Chef’s pasta that we know and love. No one beats Ryan’s Ricotta Gnocchi – little pillows of lightness enveloped in a sweet sausage Bolognese – heaven here on earth. The other half of the pasta course was equally delicious, but diametrically opposed - black as night Squid Ink Cavatelli with peppadew peppers, pomodoro, and gremolata. Perfectly spiced with just the right bite.

A Quattro Formaggi Pizza arrived next. One of the first things Chef DePersio did upon taking over the space was to install pizza ovens, along with other significant kitchen renovations. These thin-crusted babies should be a big hit for hungry theatre goers. The crispy crust was topped with ricotta, goat, pecorino, and Parmigiano cheeses, black truffles, and lardo!

A fine new entry to the “Italian Without Borders” menu is the Cumin Scented Lamb Meatballs with roasted peppers and crumbled feta. Reminiscent of an Italian grandmother’s old world meatballs but with a hint of the Middle East peeking through – these were delectable.

But wait - there was still another course before dessert!  Direct from Fascino’s much lauded menu, the Porcini Dusted Sea Scallops sitting on a crispy eggplant round, gently floating in a peperonata, red pepper emulsion. I have enjoyed these many times at Fascino, but the lightly fried eggplant platform gave the scallops a whole other delicious dimension.

Following on the heels of the scallops, Thyme Roasted Beef Tenderloin – read this description slowly and let it sink in: bone-marrow crusted tenderloin with Yukon gold rosti, and wilted Swiss chard. Cooked to a T, butter tender, and exuding all kinds of wonderful beefy flavor, this might have been my favorite dish of the night. Except, of course, for dessert, which brought down the house.

A chef’s selection of artisanal cheeses served with Acacia honey, seasonal fruit compote, and crostini was a wonderful choice for those not afflicted with a demanding sweet tooth (yours truly!).

 

The parade of desserts began with Praline Ricotta Cheesecake with Grand Marnier Sauce, followed by Chocolate Sour Cream Cake with Fudge Pot, Cherry Compote, and Pistachio Mousse; and bringing up the rear, but by no means a lesser player, Rum Raisin Bread Pudding with Caramel Pecan Gelato. 

For those of you who know me and read my articles on JerseyBites and The Cook’s Tour, you know that I am a passionate home baker (and former dessert caterer). I believe that dessert, as the final course, can make or break a meal – it’s your last impression of a restaurant. Mr Salas’ desserts deserve multiple curtain calls. All three desserts were delicious and unique, but the Chocolate Sour Cream Cake stole the show. Incredibly moist, not overly chocolate-y, with a delectable dark sour cherry compote that had us all scrambling for the last drop. But sitting innocently next to the cake, was a small white pitcher filled with what appeared to be chocolate sauce. This was no ordinary dessert sauce. This was a silky, fudgy pot de crème like I’ve never had before. After finishing the one closest to me, I started anxiously scanning the table to down another before leaving. It was that good (and let me just say, that I am not a chocolate fiend).  Mr Salas has graciously supplied the recipe for the cake and fudge pot, which I am happy to share with you. Make this for your next dinner party and you take the curtain calls.

Nico brings a level of dining to Newark that hasn’t been seen here since the early 60s. When I was a child, my family frequently dined at The Newarker, an elegant restaurant set inside the original Newark Airport. With huge window panes looking out at the tarmac, we ate magnificent meals served by tuxedoed waiters, and watched as planes with names from the past like Pan Am and TWA, came and went. Men wore suits, women donned their finest dresses, and genteel waiters made a fuss over little girls – picture the Mad Men cast at dinner (without the debauchery!). Of course, that was a long time ago, in a very different world.  Nico is all modern and sleek, and you don’t need to dress up to visit, but the food and service lives up to that very high standard.  A welcome addition to the north Jersey restaurant landscape for sure, that should be on your must-visit restaurant list. This is not just a place for when you have tickets to an NJPAC event. Although isn’t it nice to know that there is a restaurant worthy of taking a bow right outside the stage door?

  

Nico @ NJPAC

One Center Street

Newark, NJ

973-642-1226

Nicokitchenbar.com

Lunch: Monday through Friday 11:30am to 3pm
Happy Hour: Monday through Thursday 3pm to 6pm
Dinner: Monday through Thursday until 10pm | Friday and Saturday until 11pm
Sundays in conjunction with selected performances

CHOCOLATE SOUR CREAM CAKE

Yields 96 servings (2”x 2”)

4 eggs

6 yolks

4 oz. unsalted butter melted

16 oz. brewed coffee

4 oz. buttermilk

12 oz. sour cream

28 oz. granulated sugar

15 oz. all-purpose flour

7 oz. cocoa powder

4 tsp. baking soda

2 tsp. baking powder

½ tsp. salt

1.    Place parchment paper in a full size sheet pan and spray with Pam 

2.    In a bowl, sift all the dry ingredients

3.     Melt butter

4.     In a mixing bowl, whisk together the eggs, yolk until combined

5.     Add melted butter while you are whisking the eggs, add coffee, butter milk, sour cream and vanilla extract, mix until combined

6.     Add the dry ingredients to the liquid ingredients

7.     Pour into the prepared pan, bake at 300*F until cake springs back when touched or test it with a toothpick, about 10-15 minutes.

Print Recipe

FUDGE POT

Yields 10 servings

4 ½ oz. milk

4 ½ oz. heavy cream

2 yolks

2 oz. granulated sugar

3 ½ oz. semi sweet chocolate

1 Tbs. pomegranate liquor

½ tsp. vanilla extract

1.     Heat milk, cream, vanilla and half of sugar to boil

2.     Temper into the yolks with rest of sugar and cook over low heat until slightly thick

3.     Strain over chocolate and mix

4.     Add pomegranate liqueur and mix

5.     Put over ramekin and refrigerate at 2 hours

6.     Tightly cover each ramekin with plastic wrap, making sure the plastic does not touch the surface of the custard

Print Recipe

Am I Blu?

Zod Arifai’s well-known restaurant, Blu, in downtown Montclair offers a sleek, professional, comfortable dining experience.

At a media dinner a few weeks ago, we were treated to Zod’s take on modern cuisine with French, Asian, and Italian influences. Blu has been in business for six years, and truth be told, when I visited a few years ago, I was not as happy as I would have hoped. But the years have been good to Blu.

The road to the food business for Zod was paved through the music industry. As a musician, he traveled alot and one of his favorite things about being on the road was experiencing the food in different cities. At a crossroads, he decided that he wanted food to be his life’s work and opened his first restaurant in Lyndhurst. The kitchen wasn’t a totally unfamiliar place to him. When he was young, his best friend’s family owned a restaurant and Zod worked there as a busboy. And maybe it was in his blood. His father was a cook in the army and then at hotels in Italy. Zod learned at an early age from his mother that salt is the most important ingredient.

The menu at Blu changes constantly, based on Zod’s creative impulses. In fact, there are no recipes at Blu; it’s all done by eye and taste. One of his favorite ingredients is featured prominently on the menu – duck. The Montclair Thighs are his take on Buffalo wings. Composed of a duck thigh and leg, with skin so crisp and meat so moist, framed by whipped bleu cheese, celery root, and homemade hot sauce, I could have eaten an entire dinner of this appetizer. This beats traditional Buffalo wings any day and I sense this dish could become a classic.

We also loved the lightness and sweetness of Bay Scallops with Fennel, Almond, Lemon Puree, and Poppy Seeds. And a bonus appetizer of Cod with Fresh Fava Beans and Truffle Foam blew us away!

It was not easy to choose an entrée from the small, but well crafted menu. A Black Angus New York Strip Steak with Sautéed Spinach, Strawberries, Peppercorns, and Bleu Cheese was perfectly seared and bursting with flavor.  The strawberries were such an unusual plate-mate to the steak but their sweet juiciness was the perfect foil to the rich, meaty steak. This is a fine example of how Zod’s mind works!

Our other entrée was the Veal Short Ribs with Soft Polenta, Wild Mushrooms, and Black Vinegar. The short ribs were tender and flavorful, with a delicious black vinegar glaze. But, for me, the real winner of this dish was the “transport me to Italy” polenta. Thick and creamy, cooked to perfection, I’m ashamed to admit I considered licking the plate! A big bowl of Zod’s polenta is on my must-have list the next time I visit Blu.

Our waiter, Giorgio, appeared with the dessert menu. Your next question might be, could she really even be considering dessert after all that food? What do you think? Remember, in my world, dessert is my reason for being. The desserts at Blu are the definition of “thinking outside the box.” Consider our choices: Black Olive Cake with Orange Custard and Basil Ice Cream; Frozen Mocha Mousse with Coffee Foam and Hazelnut Crumbs; and Chocolate Truffle Terrine with Peanut Butter Ice Cream and Peanut Brittle. Has your mind exploded yet? The chocolate truffle terrine was so incredibly light it could have floated away, had it not been anchored by the crunchy house made brittle.  And the icy mocha mousse surrounded by ethereal coffee foam was heavenly. Have you ever had basil ice cream? Until my dinner at Blu, I never had. It’s like your best summer day in a bowl.

When I asked Zod to describe his restaurant, he said, “not pretentious, very casual, but the food is sophisticated.” He didn’t want to open a fine dining restaurant, as it was perceived. People sometimes think of upscale food as stuffy and that is not true at Blu. With rock music playing softly in the background, and a friendly wait staff standing by, Blu invites you to relax and enjoy a fine meal.

Next door to Blu, is, well, Next Door, Blu’s sibling serving lunch and dinner. Started as a spot for serving comfort food, such as meat loaf, burgers, pastas, and salads, Zod slowly added some of Blu’s specials and noticed they were a hit. So he changed the menu at Next Door and revamped its feel to be “more restaurant.” The two restaurants share a kitchen so it made sense.

Zod also recently opened Daryl Wine Bar in New Brunswick. I wondered if it was difficult juggling three restaurants, with one being quite a distance away. The chef at Daryl worked with Zod for three months and then Zod did something unique in this business. He closed Blu and took his entire staff to New Brunswick to train the Daryl staff for three months. This might be the secret to Zod’s success – smart expansion.

So am I Blu? Only in the best sense of the word.  

Blu

554 Bloomfield Avenue

Montclair, NJ

973-509-2202

www.restaurantblu.com

Open for Dinner Tuesday-Sunday

BYO

Flavors of Mexico

Baja California Sur, specifically a pristine little spot about 7 hours north of Cabo San Lucas called Loreto. This is the sleepy little fishing village you've dreamed of. An unspoiled coastline, populated with hard-working, friendly people. Loreto, you could say, is the "anti-Cabo." The "un-Cancun," the "un-Acapulco," the list could go on and on. This is the area that Jacques Cousteau called "the world's aquarium," and for good reason. The wildlife is abundant here. Loreto is the town the Mexican government had big plans for. It was to be developed as a mega-tourist destination along with Cancun and Cabo, but somehow that never materialized, and there are many people very happy about that. Yes, money would have flowed but the precious eco-system that many species found only in this part of the world depend on would have suffered.

We recently spent 8 beautiful days in Loreto, soaking up the sun, sights, sweets, and savories. We timed our trip to coincide with the arrival of the whales - the blues and the grays. Amazing creatures. They make the trip to the Baja every January from the icy cold Alaska water to breed in the warm Pacific. We took a 2 hour ride to Magdelena Bay to see grays  - we were in awe of not only their grace, but their friendliness. You can see in the photo below how close this mother and baby were to our boat. 

My husband was the only one in our party lucky enough to touch the baby! The whales love to be scratched (it helps loosen the barnacles). Who knew?


Two days later we headed out by boat an hour south of Loreto in search of blue whales. These are the largest mammals on earth and touching them is not recommended! We spotted 3 or 4 from a distance, resembling a submarine cruising through the waters. Incredible experience!

Another day we took a tour to Mission San Javier. San Javier is a mountain town and the road to get there is not for the faint of heart! Steep twists and turns with few guard rails (no margin for error here)and the last 30 minutes is on a rough dirt road. But when you finally get to the mission, it's worth it. 

The mission dates back to 1758 and is considered one of the best preserved missions in Baja (they still hold services here once a week). The village surrounding the mission has a population of about 80 people, and most of the land has been in the hands of one family for generations. In fact, we met the current owner as he was coming back from picking beans. 


Then we met him again overseeing the restaurant where we stopped for lunch. I half expected to see him working in the store where we stopped to peruse the local crafts! 

This rancher has an abundant olive grove with one tree over 300 years old. The harvest is in the fall, but we persuaded the owner to let us sample some of their delicious olives.


As cattle breeding is a major industry here, our burritos were filled with delicious, grilled, tender beef. Along with frijoles, a slice of local cheese, a sweet biscuit topped with luscious guava jelly, and washed down with a cold cerveza, it makes for a simple but delicious lunch.


On the way up to the mission, our guide asked if we'd be interested in visiting a working ranch (ranchero) - of course! He made some introductions and the gracious family allowed us to tour their farm. Their bountiful gardens supply them with their own food needs but they sell most of the produce to local markets, in addition to feed for their animals. Three generations live on this tiny farm, along with several dogs, cats, donkeys, chickens, and who knows what else! The patriarch of the family and his adorable grandson walked the gardens with us and proudly pointed out radishes, broccoli, onions, and garlic. The fragrance from the many honeysuckle trees was heady. 

As we were getting ready to leave, our guide, Antonio, lead us to a bucket of cold water and asked us to wash our hands. We had no idea what was about to happen, but could never have guessed we were about to make fresh tortillas with the lady of the house. There in a hut with a dirt floor (the ranch kitchen) stood a sweet woman who showed us how to stretch and form the dough into tortillas (somehow my tortillas didn't look anything like hers!). 


The dough is then placed on a griddle fired by cactus wood, where she expertly turned them until done. A huge bowl of frijoles made from fresh beans served as the filling. These were the best tortillas I've ever had (probably because they couldn't get any fresher!). This side trip was a wonderful peek into a hard life in a harsh land.


And, of course, we did manage to fit in some other great meals! 

One of which was at Porto Bello in the beautiful Puerto Escondido marina. Run by the charming Pedro Lopez, Porto Bello looks out over the protected harbor and warmly welcomes you.  When I told Pedro I was looking forward to enjoying the same seafood combo I had a few months earlier (but wasn't currently on the menu), he happily obliged to make it for us. Sweeter bay scallops I've never tasted. 


If you are visiting Mexico, you may want to partake in some of the more well known specialties, such as Chicken Mole. During our trip to Loreto last November, we were lucky enough to discover Hoya 19 (19th Hole) at the Loreto Bay Golf Club. Although Chicken Mole is not on the menu, a visit to the restaurant a day or two before to put in a request is welcomed. This traditional dish is made with a long list of ingredients and requires many hours to prepare(hence the advance notice).  The smoky, spicy sauce that envelops the tender chicken is the real deal at Hoya 19. 

On Sunday we visited the Loreto Farmer's Market, where you can buy anything from fresh shrimp to all kinds of produce, to shoes and TVs! We came upon a young man expertly carving mangoes and sprinkling them with salt and a squeeze of fresh lime - quite refreshing!

In Loreto Bay, we spent hours just walking the beautiful village, admiring the architecture and the gorgeous flowers blooming everywhere. 

Loreto is truly a special place. In fact, it was number 8 on the NY Times list of the 41 places to visit in 2011. And there is talk of new resorts being developed. Could this mean change is coming to this charming seaside village? It could. But hopefully the local and national government officials will hear Jacques Cousteau whispering in their ears. The whales are counting on them.