The Cook's Tour

Sunday, March 29, 2015

Passover Sponge Cake

Hi, all!

Happy Spring! At least I hope it's Spring where you are because it certainly is not here in the northeast… but I am hopeful that we may see some warmer temps this week.

In anticipation of the Easter/Passover holiday this coming weekend, I am republishing a post from 2010 that highlights the most wonderful sponge cake. Light and flavorful, you cannot go wrong with this cake. Top with fresh berries and a spoon of vanilla-tinged whipped cream, and you've got the perfect Spring dessert. Read the entire post here: or you can print just the recipe here

No matter how you celebrate the Spring holidays, may the sun's warmth shine upon you.

Eat well, stay warm, be happy.

Friday, March 13, 2015

Dave's Killer Bread

Lately, it seems almost every time I open the Food section of a newspaper (yes, I still read a real newspaper and you should too), or visit a food-related site, there is an article about “artisanal” toast. Restaurants are charging anywhere from $4-7 per slice for “artisanal” toast! What does that mean, anyway?

Bread is the most basic of food groups; it has been called the “staff of life.” But all bread is not created equal. There is your average supermarket bland white bread, and then there is a whole other world of delicious, good-for-you bread. And that’s where Dave’s Killer Bread comes in.

Starting with roots planted in Portland, Oregon in the 1950s, the story behind this bread is one laced with twisting turns, salvation, and second chances.

The “Dave” in the company name belongs to Dave Dahl. The baking business began when his father bought a bakery in 1955 and started baking breads with whole grains and no animal fats. Dave and his siblings all worked at the bakery from a young age, but Dave really had no desire for the family business, and ran into hard times struggling with depression, drugs, and crime, ultimately sentenced to15 years in state prison. During the time Dave was in prison, his brother Glenn continued to run the bakery and brought the next generation into the fold.

Dave eventually got help for his depression and addiction when he was accepted into a drug treatment program that resulted in his early release from prison in 2004. He rejoined the bakery and began to think about creating the “ultimate healthy bread.” The family developed recipes for four new varieties and set out to introduce them to the world at the Portland Farmer’s Market in August 2005. The response was nothing short of ecstatic! The company was asked to permanently join the Farmer’s Market and by fall of that year, Dave’s Killer Bread was on the shelves at local supermarkets.

All 13 varieties of Dave’s Killer Bread are USDA certified organic, and non-GMO project certified. They are packed with omega 3, fiber, protein, and whole grains.

The nice people at Dave’s sent me two loaves to try – “Good Seeds” and “21 Whole Grains and Seeds.” Loved them both! Good Seed has a slight sweetness to it, probably due to the organic molasses. Toasted, it was a perfect base for my breakfast creation of Greek yogurt, a drizzle of maple syrup, pumpkin seeds, toasted almonds,  a sprinkle of cinnamon and Nektar Naturals honey crystals.

One Saturday morning, I persuaded my in-house short order cook, to make a fried egg sandwich on toast using the 21 Whole Grains and Seeds – delish!

The breads are chock full of what they call the “Good Seed Mix” (organic whole flax seeds, organic sunflower seeds, organic ground whole flax seeds, organic un-hulled brown sesame seeds, organic un-hulled black sesame seeds), in addition to things like amaranth, barley, and spelt. These ingredients give the bread a deliciously nutty taste and texture.

From a start-up of 30 employees, they now employ about 280 people, 30% of whom, like Dave, are ex-felons. The company is all about providing second chances. They believe everyone is capable of making a contribution and seeing the good in everyone. They offer the essential tools for success: training, support, life skills, and camaraderie (seems to me these things could be essential to everyone’s life).

So where does the company name, “Dave’s Killer Bread,” come from?  Their mission statement says it all: “We don't compromise, we don't settle, we don't give up until we have 'killed it' in everything we do, from the best quality ingredients to the healthiest, tastiest, most nutritious products that delight our consumers. We believe we can always do better.”

By the way, the definition of “artisanal,” according to is “pertaining to or noting a person skilled in an applied art.” In this respect, Dave and his team are killing it.

Dave’s Killer Bread is available at Fairway Market and other retailers around the country. If you are in the Portland area, you can visit their Healthy Bread Store in Milwaukie, or order on line. Get some.

Tuesday, January 27, 2015


Greetings from New Jersey!

As you've probably seen on the news, NJ did not get snow in epic proportions as predicted. But I've still got an "official" snow day to catch up on some writing so I'm happy about that! 

If you are also taking advantage of a snow day (official or not),  here are two great recipes that are relatively quick and definitely delicious. The first one comes from Chef Tom Colicchio - One Pot Pasta with Broccoli, Ham, and Parmesan. It's an easy weeknight supper, and if you are not crazy about broccoli, sub in frozen green peas, asparagus, or cauliflower. 

Of course, you'll need a sweet to wrap up your weeknight meal, so how about Joy the Baker's Molasses Ginger and Dark Chocolate Cookies? I made these over the Christmas holiday and they were devoured so quickly that I had to make them again just last week. Warning: the heady aroma of cardamom, cloves, ginger, and cinnamon may just make you swoon with anticipation. 

Click here for the pasta recipe.

Click here for the cookie recipe.

Stay warm, eat well, be happy!


Saturday, January 24, 2015

Weekend+ in Austin!

Franklin Barbecue Brisket

In mid-December, we spent 5 days in Austin – the BBQ capital of Texas. We hadn’t planned to visit Austin this year but due to a change in our originally scheduled trip to South Africa, we (OK, I) needed a get out of town NOW option. Austin, being one of the four BBQ capitals in the US, was always on our list, and last month it moved up to the top.

Where to begin? It’s easy to get overwhelmed with BBQ choices in Austin so pre-trip research is essential. Of course, Franklin Barbecue was a must even though it required logistics worthy of a military campaign (more on that later!). Barbecue, as you might know, is very subjective (dry rub, sauce/no sauce, pork, beef, brisket, ribs, etc) and you can get dizzy trying to figure out how to get to the top places in a finite amount of time. That’s where logistics come in, but as they say, the best laid plans of mice and men…

Franklin opens at 11am every day but Monday. Lines start forming about 8am. They are usually sold out of brisket by 2pm. Our plane was due to arrive in Austin at 12:30. The plan: get the bags, pick up the rental car, shoot over to Franklin (only a few miles from AUS), be eating brisket by 1:30. Ambitious? Yes. Crazy? Maybe. Do-able? Not. Thanks to United Airlines keeping us on the ground in Newark for a “non-safety” maintenance issue well past our departure time. We landed in Austin at 1:00, high-tailed it over to Franklin by 2pm, only to see the “sold out” sign on the door (imagine our very sad, hungry faces). There were still a few people on line inside so we went on in. The very nice hostess explained that we were welcome to stay and order some of the other menu items, but there was no brisket left. We didn’t come all the way from New Jersey and rush like crazy people from the airport to not get Aaron Franklin’s legendary brisket!
Micklethwait 3-Meat Plate

Now what? We were starving for barbecue! On to what most barbecue critics and food writers consider to be right up there with Franklin: Micklethwait Craft Meats, conveniently located one mile away. In a parking lot, sits a trailer where you order, another trailer where the smoking magic happens, and a few picnic tables scattered under trees. Besides his brisket and beef ribs, Tom Micklethwait is known for handmade specialty sausage. We settled into a 3-meat plate and ooh’d and aah’d our way to smoky bliss. I gnawed the rib right down to the bone, while my husband went to town on the juicy brisket (of course, I helped), and we saved the sausage for last, which that day was lamb chipotle – the flavor, the texture - wow! They make everything from scratch and it shows. The cole slaw, pickles, the above average white bread that comes with your plate, the creamy potato salad, and (BOOM!) the jalapeno-cheese grits! You know a shop that places so much emphasis on quality ingredients and house made everything, is going to make their own desserts, and I so wanted to try the buttermilk pie they are famous for, but I was at capacity. Next time!
East Side King Pork Belly Buns
East Side King Thai Chicken

Friday lunch saw us searching out one of Paul Qui’s Asian fusion spots. Mr Qui was one of F&W Best New Chefs of 2014 so I was keen to try something from his burgeoning empire. Besides Qui, his fine dining restaurant, he has a fleet of food trucks in Austin, and a brick and mortar location called East Side King. Thanks to GPS & Austin’s easily navigable roads, we soon found ourselves at the South Lamar restaurant. We ordered at the counter, found a table, and waited for our food to arrive. First up, Poor Qui’s Buns (roasted pork belly in a steamed bun with hoisin, cucumber kimchi, and green onion) – whoa, stop the presses! Salty, porky goodness wrapped up in a delicate bun – one was definitely not going to be enough! But before we ran back up to the counter, we dove into the Thai Chicken Kara-age (deep-fried chicken thigh, sweet and spicy sauce, basil, cilantro, mint, onion, jalapeno) – oh yeah!! And because we figured we should have some veggies on this meat-centric trip, we ordered the Brussels Sprout Salad (fried Brussels sprouts, sweet/spicy sauce, shredded cabbage, basil, cilantro, mint, onion, jalapeno). East Side King is casual and funky – perfect for lunch.

We met some terrific new friends for dinner at Blackbird and Henry, a restaurant on Guadalupe Street. Run by chef-owner, Mark Schmidt, this restaurant was a hit. I started with the delicious Candied Pumpkin appetizer (diced pumpkin, speck, Maytag blue, and toasted pumpkin seed oil). I had read that one of the highlights of the menu was their rotisserie items (cider-cured pork loin, buttermilk brined chicken, or leg of Texas lamb) so I had to go with one of those. I never order chicken because nine out of ten times, it is white meat and dry, dry, dry. But something told me go with the chicken here and was I ever glad I did. Moist, flavorful, with super crispy skin, and served with seasonal vegetables covered in those glorious rotisserie drippings… My dining companions all loved their dinners, too. For dessert, Frozen Pistachio Parfait (with burnt honey caramel) – outstanding!
Blackbird & Henry Pistachio Parfait

We took a road trip Saturday to Texas Hill Country, but not before a fabulous brunch at the Hotel Ella, a lovely boutique hotel in a building dating back to 1846. Situated near the University of Texas campus, the hotel opened its doors after extensive renovations in 2013. Brunch is served Saturday and Sunday in Goodall’s Kitchen and Bar. I really wanted the Lady Bird cocktail (cream, rum, amaretto, orange juice – good morning!), but since we had a drive ahead of us, I had to pass. Barry, who was conveniently not driving, loved the excellent Bloody Mary made with Dripping Springs vodka. What did we have for brunch? More like, what didn’t we have! People, they offered warm cinnamon-sugar doughnut holes served with soft salted butter and raspberry jam (would I ever pass those up – nevah)! After scarfing every last baby doughnut, I actually had the nerve to order a main dish – Goodall’s take on a breakfast sandwich. Incredible sourdough toast with fried eggs, ham, and Gruyere cheese. I might just have to stay here on our next trip so I’m closer to those doughnuts. After a few cups of good coffee, off we went to hill country!
Hotel Ella Doughnuts

Hotel Ella Breakfast Sandwich
Goodall's Kitchen

About an hour outside Austin our first stop was the LBJ Ranch. Run by the National Park Service, this was a fascinating look into Lyndon Baines Johnson’s childhood, his presidency, and his life after he left office. While the entire property spans 2,600 acres, the NPS manages the 600 acres that encompass the national park (the Johnson family still owns the remaining land, a working ranch). On the tour of the “Texas White House,” I got chills when the NPS Ranger detailed the day President Kennedy was killed and the Secret Service told Vice President and Mrs Johnson (and their staff) that they were now standing in the home of the President of the United States.

Texas White House

After our history lesson, we drove onto Fredericksburg, a little town settled by German immigrants in 1846. I was expecting quaint old-timey shops (think bakeries, butchers, watchmakers, etc), but obviously Fredericksburg has been discovered. Now, granted we visited on a Saturday a few weeks before Christmas, but this town was mobbed! We slowly creeped behind a line of cars down the main street, and drove around a few times before finding a parking space. The sidewalks were jammed with shoppers so we quickly found the Lincoln Street Wine Market, where we settled in comfortably on their outdoor patio with a glass of wine and spent the next hour or so relaxing and listening to a great guitarist/singer.

On the way back to Austin, we decided to sample more barbecue. Many, many publications have written about Salt Lick BBQ in Driftwood. Let me just say, this was like a BBQ Disneyland (and not in a good way). Big parties toting coolers of their beverage of choice (Salt Lick is BYO) wait patiently for their beepers to go off so they can be summoned to the trough of BBQ slop. I can’t tell you how disappointed we were in this place (the food was practically unrecognizable). Maybe Salt Lick once served decent Texas BBQ but those days are long gone. We took a few bites and ran to the car.

Sunday, our last day in Austin. Our last chance to get to Franklin. I was not leaving Austin without Franklin’s brisket. Period.

When we were shut out on Day 1, we noticed a pile of folding chairs stacked near the entrance so we were hoping we could snag two of those when we arrived at 7:45am (remember, dear reader, they open at 11am). We were in luck! While I parked the car, Barry grabbed two chairs and got on line (yeah, there were already people on line – at 7:45!). Obviously the 25 barbecue pilgrims ahead of us were way more prepared. They were playing board and card games, reading the paper, making mimosas, and cracking open beers. But we passed the time talking to the nice folks in front and behind us – a nurse in town for work, an Army guy visiting his girlfriend. As we sat, the line kept growing.
The line at Franklin

A nice young woman comes out about 10am to get an idea of what you’ll be ordering so they can plan appropriately. And then, it’s here, 11am! The doors open and the line starts to snake in. The excitement is palpable as you breathe in the smoky air. As we approached the counter, I didn’t see Aaron Franklin slicing up the brisket (as many articles had recounted), and I thought “uh oh, I hope it’s just as good if he’s not here.” The nice man doing the slicing gave us a small morsel of brisket to sample & I knew everything was going to be ok.

Franklin Barbecue makes ribs, pulled pork, turkey, and sausage, in addition to THE brisket. And I’m sure those things are all very good. But we were not wasting our time or appetite on them. No sir, we came for brisket and brisket is what we shall have!

As we started to order, my husband tapped my shoulder to point Aaron Franklin coming out of the kitchen. As I had tweeted to him (@franklinbbq) earlier in the week, I ran over to introduce myself and he couldn’t have been nicer.
Pinto beans at Franklin

Look at that bark!
The brisket was otherworldly. I know that’s pretty gushy, but it’s true. Everything about this brisket was perfect – the bark (crust), the flavor, the texture, the salt. We gorged ourselves on a pound of brisket, some delish cole slaw, and fabulously creamy pinto beans with shards of that brisket mixed in. Unbelievable.

We rolled ourselves outta there & over to a 90-minute Austin city tour (probably not the best idea after that meal), where we saw all kinds of great stuff that we definitely need to do next time!
Austin skyline
We had dinner reservations that evening at LaCondesa (one of Austin’s best Mexican restaurants) but I was in a meat coma and could not eat one more thing (really).

So when we returned home and recounted our story of waiting in line three hours for barbecue, everybody had the same response, “are you crazy, was it worth it?” And I had the same answer for all of them, “definitely, would do it again in a minute!”

If you fashion yourself a barbecue lover, you must go to Austin. Don’t wait, leave now.

We have now been to three of the BBQ capitals in the US (the other two being Memphis and North Carolina). Kansas City, you’re next.

Tuesday, December 30, 2014

The Cook's Tour - 2014 Year in Review

Dispatch New Jersey
December 30, 2014

The end of 2014 marks my sixth year of writing The Cook’s Tour (wow!). I’d like to thank you, the readers, for taking the journey with me. I am always happy when you comment on my posts, and even more so when you tell me that you enjoyed a restaurant I wrote about, or a new food product I’ve tried, or a recipe I’ve suggested. So I thought the approaching year-end would be a great time to review where the Tour has gone this year. Come along with me as we revisit highlights!
Vetri Cookie/Chocolate Plate
January saw the recap of our wonderful post-Christmas trip to Philadelphia.  There were several great food experiences, but the definite highlight was our dinner at Vetri. As I wrote in that post, and even after a year to reflect, Vetri was one of the best food experiences ever! Expensive? Yes, but one of those “musts,” along with places like Chez Panisse in Berkeley, or Fore Street in Portland, if you are a  serious food lover.

We also visited DiNic’s in the Reading Terminal. The polar opposite of the Vetri experience, but no less delicious. Their signature sandwich, roast pork with escarole and sharp provolone is not to be missed if you go to Philly!

Also a "don't miss" is the incomparable cinnamon ice cream at Bassett's.

And rounding out January was the Super Bowl right in our own backyard! Of course, there was some grousing about traffic, crowds, etc (remember, this is New Jersey!), but all went off without a hitch. That occasion gave me a chance to repost my award-winning South of the Border Super Bowl Baskets, which you should definitely add to either your New Year’s Eve/Day menus, or February’s Super Bowl party list. They are quick, easy, and delicious!

Then the depths of winter were upon us. New Jersey, and the entire Northeast, suffered through one of the worst winters ever. In terms of blog posts, the winter was a little lean, but I did find time to bake these fabulous Nutella Brownies – make these, people! You will not be disappointed and they just might get you through the long, dark winter.

In the early spring, I visited CafĂ© Matisse in Rutherford and the new Mighty Quinn’s BBQ in Clifton. You can’t get two more different restaurant experiences if you tried. Follow the links to read about them.
Perfect Soft Shells

Since I’m starting (already!) to pine for summer, I am going to skip ahead to my July 26th article about a wonderful soft shell crab dinner we enjoyed on the deck. Just looking at the pictures makes me feel better.

September saw us heading up the GSP to Red Hat on the River in Irvington, NY. This is going to be an annual trip, I think, because it’s got two essential elements of a perfect fall road trip (good food and beautiful water views).
Lost Kitchen

Lost Kitchen

Lost Kitchen Oysters

We were lucky to get reservations at The Lost Kitchen in Freedom, Maine during our late September trip. And it was a good thing we got there before the New York Times put the restaurant on the map because the chances of getting in there again are slim. This restaurant is right up there with the best of them. A superb culinary experience.

Palace Diner corned beef hash
Palace Diner sublime eggy, custardy French Toast
On the way home from Maine, we had one of the best breakfasts ever at The Palace Diner in Biddeford. These guys know what they're doing. Why, oh why, are there no places like this in north Jersey??? 

In November, the nice folks at the American Dairy Association and Dairy Council, once again, invited me to join them on their annual NY State Dairy Tour. If you haven’t been to the Finger Lakes region of New York, you must add this to your travel planner. They've got it all up there: gorgeous lakes, great food, and fabulous vineyards.
"The Girls" at Patterson Family Farms

Rounding out the year was our trip to Austin, Texas just a couple of weeks ago for five days of BBQ! You read that right. We traveled to Austin strictly for BBQ. That post is coming in January (here's a sneak peek at what's to come):
Franklin BBQ Brisket

Here’s wishing you health, happiness, and good food in 2015!