Bella Sicilia: Parte Sesta (part six) - Ristorante Duomo, Ragusa

Chocolates at Duomo

Happy New Year, dear readers, I hope you had a wonderful holiday season!

Well, here we are at the end of my Sicily travelogue. Writing this for you has helped me relive how beautiful this trip was. I saved something special for my last Sicily post: the extraordinary lunch we had at Ristorante Duomo in the charming hill town of Ragusa. I hope you enjoyed this virtual journey as much as I enjoyed writing it.

Helmed by Ciccio Sultana (chef/owner), Duomo is everything you might expect at a Michelin starred restaurant: exquisite food, gracious service, beautiful surroundings (a food stall in Singapore earned a Michelin star in 2016 so remember fabulous food can be found anywhere).

Terry and Chef Ciccio

As you may know, when I travel I spend a great deal of time researching food and restaurants at my destination, and Sicily was no different. To me this is not drudge work, I love reading about the foods and restaurants at our upcoming destinations. A search turned up many good possibilities in the area, including four Michelin starred locales in the 2017 guide. After deciding on Duomo, I asked our tour leader to make a lunch reservation for us, and that morning during a walking tour of the city, we happened to pass by the restaurant. To my delight, Chef Ciccio was outside making a phone call and he kindly took a picture with me. I’m sure it was no big deal to him, but it made my day!

The lunch menu at Duomo is prix fixe, and quite the bargain 

 I think. For 59 Euros, you get five courses (with a couple of extra surprises), and three glasses of wine/champagne. The full menu is below. From beginning to end, this lunch was outstanding, and must go on my “top five” list* of memorable meals.

bread basket

Duomo Lunch:

smoked swordfish

• Smoked swordfish with cantaloupe melon salad and pistachio sauce, with an olive stuffed pistachio marzipan and mock pit



spaghettone

• Homemade spaghettone with moresca sauce “taratata” with tuna bottarga and carrot cream



truffle ice cream

• Sicilian scorzone truffle ice cream



amberjack

• Amberjack with Hyblean caper blossom powder, “Fiore” black olives stuffed with Pizzuta d’Avola almond, green beans, smoked sauce



cannolo



espresso

• Cannolo stuffed with Ragusa ricotta on lukewarm San Cono prickly pear soup served with Pizzuta d’Avola almond sorbet
• Housemade chocolates

As I mentioned in Parte Due, one of my reasons for wanting to go to Sicily was to seek out any ancestral ties on my mother’s side. In corresponding with our trip leader, Alessio, before the trip, I told him that I was looking for connections to my mother’s family who had emigrated to the US from Palermo in the early 1900s. I told him the family name was Librizzi and perhaps he could help me research it when we got to Sicily. A short time later, Alessio responded that his wife’s maiden name is Li Brizzi, and he would be happy to introduce us. I nearly cried when I read that! What are the chances that our tour guide’s wife would have the same last name (albeit with a slightly different spelling) as my mother’s family? Pretty slim, I think. 

On our last evening in Palermo, Alessio invited the entire group to join him, his beautiful wife Cristina, and their two adorable boys for dinner.  I didn’t get to spend much time talking with Cristina, and most likely we are not related, but when Alessio said “no matter, we are “cugini" (cousins) and you will always have family here in Sicily,” I felt like the connection that I have always felt to this beautiful island was more real now than ever before. 

Ciao, bella Sicilia, fino al mio ritorno! (until I return).

* My “top five” (in no particular order):

Chez Panisse, Berkeley, CA

Vetri, Philadelphia, PA

Duomo, Ragusa, Sicily

Steireck, Vienna, Austria

The Lost Kitchen, Freedom, ME

Upcoming in early 2017: lunch at NYC's Bouley and the food scene in Sarasota, Florida! 

Stay warm, eat well, be happy!

Philadelphia Weekend

The day after Christmas we hopped in the car and took ourselves on a little 3-day getaway for eating, drinking, and general touristy stuff.  Our criteria was simple:

• Not more than a three hour drive from north Jersey
• Great restaurants
• Pampering hotels
• Walkable
• Good sightseeing 

Ding, ding!  And the answer is? What is Philadelphia?

An easy drive down the NJ Turnpike and two hours later we were checking in to the Loews Philadelphia Hotel. Smack in the heart of Philadelphia’s Center City, the Loews had everything we wanted – affordable rates, prime location, on-site bar (for that all-important pre-dinner cocktail), knowledgeable concierge, and free parking. Besides all that, we were upgraded to a high-level floor with gorgeous views of the City of Brotherly Love. William Penn, perched high atop City Hall, bid me good morning every day, and what a way to start the day!

Of course, I had done my homework re restaurants, museums, history sights, etc. At the top of the list (and for our first night) was Vetri. The restaurant sighted by Mario Batali as “possibly the best Italian restaurant on the East Coast,” and by Alan Richman as “probably the best Italian restaurant in America,” was a must. I managed to get a 6:45pm reservation, and after a brisk walk, we arrived.  Situated in a lovely townhouse, Vetri, headed by chef/owner Marc Vetri, has only one type of dining experience – a tasting menu. I usually veer away from tasting menus because they are expensive and you rarely get enough to eat. But after reading about Vetri’s tasting menu, I was confident this would be different. Yes, it was expensive, but there was so much food, at one point, I considered telling them to not bring the next course.  Then I thought, “are you insane, you will probably never be back here again, bring it on!”  The food was exquisite. As was the service.

Before I begin, you will notice there is only one photo of our dinner at Vetri in this post.  Being an enthusiastic food blogger, I take pictures of almost all my meals (just in case I might write about them). But the atmosphere at Vetri was rarified. Not that it was pretentious or stuffy; on the contrary, it was very warm and welcoming. It was like dining in Chef Vetri’s home (one could only wish for that opportunity!) and taking photos in “his home” just didn’t feel right. I didn’t even feel that it was appropriate to take notes, so most of this is from my delicious memories!

As soon as you are seated, the wait staff offers you Prosecco and a plate of luscious stuzzichini (hors d’oeuvres). This consisted of probably the best olives I’ve ever had, house-cured salami, pastrami-spiced foie gras on toast (killer!), raw vegetables with a balsamic crema, and fabulous bread. Then the parade of courses begins.

As the staff explains, even though this is a tasting menu, each guest at the table receives a different item, this way you can sample more of the chef’s work. The first course is di pesce (fish). We were treated to Bocconcini di Baccala (small bites of delicious cod) and Pappardelle with Cockles and Tardivo. While I loved the luscious pasta in this second dish, the cockles, for my taste, were too salty and fishy. When I didn’t finish the dish, the server graciously offered to bring me a different fish item.

Next up, Di Verdure (vegetables). A Sweet Onion Crepe with Truffle Fondue was otherworldly. Delicious onions sautéed and enveloped in tender crepes with a delicate truffle sauce. Our second vegetable dish was the Ricotta Ravioli with Wild Pecan. One of the many things Vetri is known for is their pasta. I can’t begin to tell you how good these ravioli were. Which, for a food blogger, is not exactly a positive thing (LOL!).  These little pillows of fragrant ravioli filled with wild pecan were heavenly.

Di Terra (from the earth) was the next course. The famous Vetri Tortellini Pie, which is a distant relative of the timpano or timballo (see the movie “Big Night” for an in-depth course on timballo), is a fabulous little package of pastry-wrapped tiny “polpette” (pork, veal, and beef meatballs) with a “mortedella mousse Bolognese” topped with a velvety béchamel sauce. And if it couldn’t possibly get any better, it’s served with a 25-year old balsamic from Modena.  Follow this link to see Vetri Chef de Cuisine, Adam Leonti, making it. This was my favorite dish at Vetri.  The other earth course was Chestnut Fettuccine with Wild Boar Ragu. I must admit that before my dinner at Vetri, I had never tasted wild boar. This is a dish based on Chef Vetri’s days in Tuscany. He adds a bit of cocoa powder to cut the gaminess and enhance the flavor of the chestnut fettuccine.  One word, succulent!

Vetri’s sommelier will pair wines for each course, but we opted for a bottle of a delicious 2011 Barbera d’Alba that went beautifully with each course.

And, finally, Dolce (dessert). But Vetri doesn’t just bring your designated desserts. No, first there is “pre-dessert.” At this point, I couldn’t stand it any longer and had to take a picture! 

I would have been good with our little plate of luscious chocolates and cookies, but we were treated to a delicious Chocolate Polenta Souffle and a delicate Pistachio Flan with Milk Chocolate Gelato.

When you finally must leave this lovely cocoon of fine dining, the staff gives you a small bag with samples of Vetri’s wonderful coffee cake to savor with your next morning’s coffee. OK, they had me at “hello,” but that was the icing on the cake (so to speak).

Our meal at Vetri ranks in my top all-time meals. The first being Steirereck, in Vienna, the second, Alice Waters’ legendary Chez Panisse in California. And now, Vetri, is added to that list. If you have the chance, go. It is not to be missed. Mario Batali and Alan Richman were right.

Part two of our Philly trip next week, where I will tell you about the second best meal of the trip – DiNic’s roast pork sandwich.

Vetri Ristorante

1312 Spruce Street

Philadelphia, PA 19107

215-732-3478

Loews Philadelphia Hotel

1200 Market Street

Philadelphia, PA 19107

215-627-1200

San Francisco Weekend, Day 2

Beautiful pansies in Golden Gate Park

San Francisco. Blue skies. Warm sunshine. Flowers blooming. What could you possibly add  to make this any better?  Of course, the answer is simple.  Fabulous food and drink, and dinner at Chez Panisse!  But first, one has to have breakfast...


SF is a city with hundreds of breakfast eateries but I wanted something special.  We walked from our hotel up to North Beach, past old world Italian cafes offering traditional espresso and morning cappuccino but not much in the way of a hearty breakfast.  My trusty iPhone pointed us in the direction of a spot on Stockton Street that had terrific reviews.  By the line stretching halfway up the block, we knew we had found Mama's.

The seemingly endless queue at Mama's

Owned by the same family for over 50 years, Mama's serves up breakfast and lunch every day but Monday. Baking all their own breads and pastries, this place was right up my alley. Throw in an incredible array of breakfast entrees and morning cocktails, and B-I-N-G-O!  


We waited 1-1/2 hours (no exaggeration!). At one point, my poor, coffee-deprived husband walked 3 blocks to one of the little Italian cafes for a to-go cup.  Then three people on line followed suit!  My biggest fear was that we would find mediocre food after the interminable wait. Luckily, my fears were not realized. And once you get in the door, it is a rather efficient operation. Lining up along the front counter to place your order, you come face to face with baskets of sourdough bread, Kugelhopf, poppy seed bundt cake, and banana walnut loaf, all whispering their siren song.

Fresh sourdough baguettes

Delicious breakfast breads

Kugelhopf!

Eggs Benedict with Prosciutto and Tomatoes

The Sanchez family delivers traditional breakfasts such as French toast and pancakes, and eggs Benedict, but all with a slightly different twist.  For instance, my Benedict came with prosciutto and tomatoes; my husband's was served with Dungeness crab and spinach. The portions were huge, delicious, and the eggs were cooked perfectly! And being the cake nut that I am, I had to try the Kugelhopf - it came slightly warmed and the waitress suggested I try it with a dollop of their homemade jam, which went perfectly with my Peach Bellini.  Mama's was definitely worth the wait!

Asparagus in the Chez Panisse kitchen

After a nice walk around SF (and a nap), it was time to head to Chez Panisse. I'm sure most of you reading this blog know all about Chez Panisse and the legendary Alice Waters.  So there is probably no need for a history lesson. This allows me to jump right into the dinner details. Promptly seated in the downstairs dining room, which was awash in soft lighting and  warm northern California breezes, the top-notch wait staff takes over. Our team of two servers made us feel immediately at home. A delicious aperitif (a bourbon-champagne concoction) was served along with a bread basket. The downstairs dining room offers a set menu so there is nothing to deliberate - Alice has decided for you - the only choices you need make are wine. Our waiter offered to pair wines with every course and each one was a perfect match. 

Asparagus Salad

The first course was Asparagus salad with Catalan salsa and garden greens. Now, I've had asparagus a million times, and I fully expected this restaurant to shine in the produce department, but I was blown away by the delicious, earthy flavor of these asparagus. And paired with the slightly spicy Catalan salsa, it was just divine.

Halibut

Next, Steamed halibut with Savoy cabbage and crawfish butter sauce. A magnificent combination of flavors.

The main course was Roasted rack and loin of Dal Porto lamb with thyme and sage, stuffed artichoke hearts, fava beans, and spring onions. The lamb was perfect, and the vegetables were so fresh, and tender, and bursting with flavor.

Right before dessert, our waiter asked if I would like to visit the kitchen (uh, let me think about that...). Sadly, Alice was not there that evening, but I had a lovely conversation with the pastry chef as she was plating the evening's desserts. What a treat to be able to see the Chez Panisse kitchen (which is rather small, actually). 

Chez Panisse Dessert

Post-dessert treats

After floating back to the table, dessert arrived. Caramel ice cream and chocolate sherbet vacherin. In addition to this delight, the pastry chef sent out miniature, delicate strawberries coated in crystallized sugar and orange slices dipped in dark chocolate. 

Before our trip, I did copious research on Chez Panisse and read the many opinions on whether this venerable restaurant had lost its' touch. In my humble opinion, it has not. The exquisite food, warm and gracious service, and welcoming atmosphere, puts Chez Panisse in my top five all-time food experiences. 

San Francisco Weekend

Flew out to San Francisco last weekend to visit some wonderful friends. While there, of course I took full advantage of the many fabulous restaurants, complete with an outstanding dinner at the legendary Chez Panisse.


First stop, the Ferry Building. Opened in 1898, it was the transportation focal point for anyone arriving by train into San Francisco.  Today, it serves as a marketplace for everything from artisan cheeses to fresh fish to high-end coffee roasters.  One of my goals on this trip was to visit as many of the West Coast coffee roasters as possible (more about our "coffee crawl" later).  The Ferry Building is a great place to sample some of the California purveyors of fine food in one location (Slanted Door, Gott's Roadside, Hog Island Oyster, just to name a few).  Unfortunately for us, Friday at lunch hour is not the most ideal time for this.  It was mobbed.  We could not get in anywhere without at least a 60 minute wait.  And after a 6 hour flight, we just couldn't endure it.  So we settled for some fish tacos at a not quite-so-mobbed seafood stall.  But all was not lost!  I spied a Blue Bottle outpost and quickly got on line. They specialize in small batch roasting and individually prepared drip coffee.  I ordered a cappuccino and watched as the barista carefully brewed the coffee, then frothed the milk, and finally "drew" a lovely little heart design with the foam. Outside of Italy, this is the best cappuccino I've ever had the pleasure of drinking. Smooth with a rich coffee-caramel flavor, I savored each drop. 

Dinner our first night in SF, was at Perbacco, a sleek Italian on California Street.  In Italian, Perbacco means "to accentuate the positive," and the restaurant's food certainly lives up to that.  I had a delightful Strawberry and Arugula Salad with a white balsamic vinaigrette, ricotta salata, and toasted almonds for my first course.  I couldn't resist having pasta for an entree and the Raviora were comforting yet sophisticated.  Small pillows filled with Meyer lemon and ricotta, bathed in an asparagus passatini with mint, accompanied by a hearty Dolcetto were the perfect "welcome" to San Francisco. 


Day 2 of this whirlwind food tour, including the Chez Panisse dinner, tomorrow.  Bye for now...