'Till We Eat Again - Charleston Edition - Part II

Greetings, dear readers! Hope this finds you well.

A few weeks ago on the CT, I wrote about a lovely springtime salad that you should definitely make. BTW: I think we have turned the corner here in NJ re the weather & it really is Spring - yeah!

And the time before that, we talked about a luscious Apple Buttermilk Loaf Cake (have you made that yet?).

Ft Sumter flag raising

Now it’s time to get back to Charleston (figuratively speaking). On our last full day in CHS, we hopped a ferry to visit Ft Sumter (about 30 minutes from downtown CHS). On the way there, playful dolphins accompanied the boat while a guide gave us an overview of what we could expect at the fort. There was a crisp breeze but the sun was shining brightly as we did a self-guided tour around the grounds. Lucky for us, being the first boat of the day to land at the fort, we watched as the National Park rangers raised our nation’s flag for the day. Ft Sumter is definitely worth a visit.

Ribs at Rodney Scott's BBQ

Remember in my earlier post, I bemoaned the fact we were shut out of ribs at Rodney Scott’s BBQ on our first day? Well, this was our last best hope to get those ribs & we were determined to get them! So after disembarking the Ft Sumter ferry, we Uber’d over to Rodney’s & got on line (yes, there was a line at 11:30am!). WOW! Must say, BEST RIBS EVER! We try BBQ everywhere (we’re certified KCBS BBQ judges so it’s kind of our job) and these were killer! These ribs were big and smoky and juicy and succulent! Believe me, there were no leftovers at our table. When Rodney stopped by to see how everything was, we tried to convince him to PLEASE come to New Jersey (no dice). Rodney Scott’s BBQ is a must if you love BBQ & are in Charleston (or you could plan a trip just for these - they are worth a drive or a flight!).

McLeod Plantation owner's home

After polishing off those ribs, we took in our last historic site, McLeod Plantation. Established in 1851, it is one of the most authentic views into the lives of slaves who lived and worked there for decades, enriching the plantation owners by growing and harvesting sea island cotton under deplorable conditions. It was an enlightening and sobering visit, lightyears away from the sanitized tour we took at Magnolia Plantation earlier in the week.

View of live oaks and slave quarters at McLeod Plantation

Ricotta Gnocchi at FIG

For our last two dinners in Charleston, we had reservations at FIG (Food is Good) and The Ordinary, both owned by celebrated chef, Mike Lata. After reading for years about these restaurants, I was really looking forward to superb meals. At FIG, the standout dish recommended by every notable food critic is the ricotta gnocchi. I’m spoiled because here in NJ, there is no finer ricotta gnocchi than that served by Ryan DePersio at Fascino in Montclair, so FIG had big shoes to fill going in. And I must say that FIG’s gnocchi came very, very close. These small, puffy pillows of delicate ricotta surrounded by an Ossabaw bolognese were heavenly.

Fabulous whiskey sour at Felix

Before dinner at The Ordinary, we stopped next door at Felix, a terrific cocktail lounge, that reminded me of a chic bar you might find somewhere in Paris. We sat at the bar and sipped expertly made cocktails until our dinner reservation time approached. We loved the atmosphere and service at Felix so that we wished we had stayed there for dinner! Next time!

The view from the upstairs dining room at The Ordinary

Jumbo Lump Blue Crab Toast - The Ordinary

The Ordinary is Lata’s casual seafood restaurant and oyster bar. Set in a former bank building, it’s a cavernous, loud setting. We sat upstairs where we had a birds-eye view of the action downstairs. The first things on the menu that caught my eye were the Hawaiian rolls with sea salt butter (natch!) and the sea salt potato chips - both excellent! My friend, A, enjoyed the Jumbo Lump Blue Crab Toast with Lime and English Peas - a beautiful presentation. My entree, Grilled New Orleans Style BBQ White Shrimp was good, but did not live up to The Ordinary’s hype. But the restaurant redeemed itself with my dessert — a perfectly luscious Coconut Cream Pie that made me practically lick the dish!

Coconut Cream Pie at The Ordinary

Our four days in Charleston were a really nice break from winter in the northeast, combined with a chance to visit with friends that we don’t see very often. The city has alot going on, and is growing at a rapid rate, but if you’ve never been and have an affinity for innovative food, traditional low country dishes, American history, and graceful Southern hospitality, make a plan to visit Charleston soon. 

Curtain Up in Newark!

A world class performing arts center needs a restaurant of the same caliber, and NJPAC in Newark is no exception.  So without further adieu, please welcome Nico to the stage.

Brought to life by the capable hands of Ryan DePersio, Nico recently opened in the space previously owned by the Theatre Square Grill. And while Theatre Square made for a decent place for a quick bite or a drink before or after a show, it was never a destination restaurant. That’s all about to change.

Between the soaring ceilings, dramatic drapes, gorgeous bar, and seductive lighting, Nico invites you to spend some time here. Order a perfectly made martini or a luscious Pinot Noir and peruse the “Italian Without Borders” menu.

Mr DePersio, along with his family, is the force behind a growing mini restaurant empire in Essex County. You may know them from Fascino in Montclair, or Bar Cara in Bloomfield. Nico is the latest entry in this culinary kingdom. All of the restaurants are grounded in their Italian heritage, but Nico pushes the envelope just a little.  At a recent press dinner, Mr DePersio showed us how far his culinary creativity reaches.

Chef DePersio is ably assisted by a wonderful team at Nico, both in the front of the house and in the kitchen. The Chef de Cuisine duties are handled by Adam Rose, and desserts are headed up by Binicio Salas, Pastry Chef.

The evening began with a Trio of Tartares consisting of Scottish Salmon, Truffled Beef, and Yellowfin Tuna, served with small slices of toasted Italian bread. I loved the mix of flavors as the seafood played off the beef.  But the Beet Pinwheel was the star of the first course. Paper-thin slices of beets dusted with goat cheese “snow” and topped with a red wine syrup and mache salad were incredible. If beets were cooked like this more often, they wouldn’t be such a maligned vegetable!

The second course brought us some of the Chef’s pasta that we know and love. No one beats Ryan’s Ricotta Gnocchi – little pillows of lightness enveloped in a sweet sausage Bolognese – heaven here on earth. The other half of the pasta course was equally delicious, but diametrically opposed - black as night Squid Ink Cavatelli with peppadew peppers, pomodoro, and gremolata. Perfectly spiced with just the right bite.

A Quattro Formaggi Pizza arrived next. One of the first things Chef DePersio did upon taking over the space was to install pizza ovens, along with other significant kitchen renovations. These thin-crusted babies should be a big hit for hungry theatre goers. The crispy crust was topped with ricotta, goat, pecorino, and Parmigiano cheeses, black truffles, and lardo!

A fine new entry to the “Italian Without Borders” menu is the Cumin Scented Lamb Meatballs with roasted peppers and crumbled feta. Reminiscent of an Italian grandmother’s old world meatballs but with a hint of the Middle East peeking through – these were delectable.

But wait - there was still another course before dessert!  Direct from Fascino’s much lauded menu, the Porcini Dusted Sea Scallops sitting on a crispy eggplant round, gently floating in a peperonata, red pepper emulsion. I have enjoyed these many times at Fascino, but the lightly fried eggplant platform gave the scallops a whole other delicious dimension.

Following on the heels of the scallops, Thyme Roasted Beef Tenderloin – read this description slowly and let it sink in: bone-marrow crusted tenderloin with Yukon gold rosti, and wilted Swiss chard. Cooked to a T, butter tender, and exuding all kinds of wonderful beefy flavor, this might have been my favorite dish of the night. Except, of course, for dessert, which brought down the house.

A chef’s selection of artisanal cheeses served with Acacia honey, seasonal fruit compote, and crostini was a wonderful choice for those not afflicted with a demanding sweet tooth (yours truly!).

 

The parade of desserts began with Praline Ricotta Cheesecake with Grand Marnier Sauce, followed by Chocolate Sour Cream Cake with Fudge Pot, Cherry Compote, and Pistachio Mousse; and bringing up the rear, but by no means a lesser player, Rum Raisin Bread Pudding with Caramel Pecan Gelato. 

For those of you who know me and read my articles on JerseyBites and The Cook’s Tour, you know that I am a passionate home baker (and former dessert caterer). I believe that dessert, as the final course, can make or break a meal – it’s your last impression of a restaurant. Mr Salas’ desserts deserve multiple curtain calls. All three desserts were delicious and unique, but the Chocolate Sour Cream Cake stole the show. Incredibly moist, not overly chocolate-y, with a delectable dark sour cherry compote that had us all scrambling for the last drop. But sitting innocently next to the cake, was a small white pitcher filled with what appeared to be chocolate sauce. This was no ordinary dessert sauce. This was a silky, fudgy pot de crème like I’ve never had before. After finishing the one closest to me, I started anxiously scanning the table to down another before leaving. It was that good (and let me just say, that I am not a chocolate fiend).  Mr Salas has graciously supplied the recipe for the cake and fudge pot, which I am happy to share with you. Make this for your next dinner party and you take the curtain calls.

Nico brings a level of dining to Newark that hasn’t been seen here since the early 60s. When I was a child, my family frequently dined at The Newarker, an elegant restaurant set inside the original Newark Airport. With huge window panes looking out at the tarmac, we ate magnificent meals served by tuxedoed waiters, and watched as planes with names from the past like Pan Am and TWA, came and went. Men wore suits, women donned their finest dresses, and genteel waiters made a fuss over little girls – picture the Mad Men cast at dinner (without the debauchery!). Of course, that was a long time ago, in a very different world.  Nico is all modern and sleek, and you don’t need to dress up to visit, but the food and service lives up to that very high standard.  A welcome addition to the north Jersey restaurant landscape for sure, that should be on your must-visit restaurant list. This is not just a place for when you have tickets to an NJPAC event. Although isn’t it nice to know that there is a restaurant worthy of taking a bow right outside the stage door?

  

Nico @ NJPAC

One Center Street

Newark, NJ

973-642-1226

Nicokitchenbar.com

Lunch: Monday through Friday 11:30am to 3pm
Happy Hour: Monday through Thursday 3pm to 6pm
Dinner: Monday through Thursday until 10pm | Friday and Saturday until 11pm
Sundays in conjunction with selected performances

CHOCOLATE SOUR CREAM CAKE

Yields 96 servings (2”x 2”)

4 eggs

6 yolks

4 oz. unsalted butter melted

16 oz. brewed coffee

4 oz. buttermilk

12 oz. sour cream

28 oz. granulated sugar

15 oz. all-purpose flour

7 oz. cocoa powder

4 tsp. baking soda

2 tsp. baking powder

½ tsp. salt

1.    Place parchment paper in a full size sheet pan and spray with Pam 

2.    In a bowl, sift all the dry ingredients

3.     Melt butter

4.     In a mixing bowl, whisk together the eggs, yolk until combined

5.     Add melted butter while you are whisking the eggs, add coffee, butter milk, sour cream and vanilla extract, mix until combined

6.     Add the dry ingredients to the liquid ingredients

7.     Pour into the prepared pan, bake at 300*F until cake springs back when touched or test it with a toothpick, about 10-15 minutes.

Print Recipe

FUDGE POT

Yields 10 servings

4 ½ oz. milk

4 ½ oz. heavy cream

2 yolks

2 oz. granulated sugar

3 ½ oz. semi sweet chocolate

1 Tbs. pomegranate liquor

½ tsp. vanilla extract

1.     Heat milk, cream, vanilla and half of sugar to boil

2.     Temper into the yolks with rest of sugar and cook over low heat until slightly thick

3.     Strain over chocolate and mix

4.     Add pomegranate liqueur and mix

5.     Put over ramekin and refrigerate at 2 hours

6.     Tightly cover each ramekin with plastic wrap, making sure the plastic does not touch the surface of the custard

Print Recipe

Fascino - Montclair, NJ

While it is Italian in cuisine and lineage, Fascino in Montclair, NJ is by no means your average Italian restaurant. Set toward the not-yet-totally re-gentrified end of Bloomfield Avenue, Fascino sits back quietly unassuming, confident in its abilities to provide high-end, sophisticated food and service. This is the kind of culinary evening people in the north Jersey area previously had to travel to New York to experience. And while there are many fine restaurants in Montclair and the surrounding areas, Fascino is a cut above.

Headed in the kitchen by Executive Chef, Ryan DePersio, the food practically glows as it makes its way to your table. We have been visiting Fascino since they opened in 2003 and it keeps getting better. Last night's meal was no exception. An amuse bouche, consisting of a bite-sized morsel of crisp halibut sitting so daintily in a light yogurt sauce, was presented to our group. Just enough to whet your appetite for what lay ahead. I wanted more.

Excellent breads from Gina's Bakery (also in Montclair) made their way to our table along with an incredibly fruity olive oil.

One of my favorite spring/summer items is fresh Zucchini Flowers and

Ryan stuffs them with Maine Peekytoe Crab and ricotta and lightly fries them. It is served with a

light, fresh yellow tomato Gazpacho. Incredible.

Fascino is BYO, which is always a plus for us. And even better for us last night, our dinner companion was a friend who is a wine consultant and he brought a delicious Orvieto from a small, family vineyard in Tuscany. Just acidic enough, this crisp white blended perfectly with the zucchini flowers and Bernie's appetizer of Fresh Seafood Salad. For the record, he couldn't stop "oohing and aahing" over the incredible array of seafood laid before him - shrimp, clams, squid, octopus - see the photo above for the beautiful presentation.

Since it was a rainy, chilly evening, it seemed appropriate to order a Fall-like dish (truth be told, I never really need an excuse to order Osso Buco). Ryan's Veal Osso Buco served with brussel sprouts over a pillow of delicious sweet potato puree, was mind-blowing. That's my Osso Buco at the top of the post - look at the gorgeous shellac on that shank! A gentle prod with my fork sent the ever-so-tender meat cascading into the potato puree, creating a wonderful taste combination. That veal shank was picked clean when I was done.

My husband ordered the exact same meal as me, but when I told our wine-knowledgeable friend, Bernie, that all the pastas are house-made, his fate was sealed. Tagliatelle

with Shredded Short Ribs was the winner - it looked (and by all accounts) tasted fabulous. Our wine for dinner was a 2004 La Vigna Mobile, a super Tuscan made up

primarily of Sangiovese grapes. A terrific accompaniment to the food.

A unique and delicious side is the Mascarpone Polenta Fries with Gorgonzola Fonduta (OMG!). Imagine these as Italy's answer to our own French fries or France's pomme frite! These disappeared from our table in a flash. Light, crispy, with an earthy richness - IMHO I don't think you even need the gorgonzola sauce. These are not to be missed.

A true family operation, Ryan's mother, Cynthia DePersio, is the Pastry Chef. Being a baker myself, I always look forward to trying one of Cynthia's creations. Last night's choice: Brazilian Coffee and Vanilla Sundae

with Midnight Chocolate Sauce and Chocolate Coffee Bean Crisp ("HELLO!"). While my dining companions all professed to not being able to eat another bite after dinner, somehow there were three spoons in my dessert. This might be my new favorite dessert at Fascino.

There is a welcoming warmth about Fascino. Whether it's the deep red banquettes you slide into, or the greetings from the DePersio family (Ryan's brother, Anthony, is the GM and their father, Anthony Sr, is usually lending a hand with front of the house duties), dining at Fascino is always a pleasure. Now celebrating its' fifth anniversary, the "fascination" continues at Fascino.